How To Pick The Right Suit For Your Body Shape
As with the Napoleonic chap, a two-button jacket and high-waisted trousers are your friends in the right places, elongating and narrowing accordingly. Again, a peak lapel can contribute to your verticality, while its width is more proportional to, well, yours.
Meanwhile, the reverse of the skinny guy applies to you: lighter fabrics like hopsack or cotton can take a few optical pounds off. And don’t make the common mistake of going baggy to try to hide your girth, as you’ll only exaggerate it: the jacket should skim your shoulders. You can nip it in to give the illusion of a narrow waist (slanted hip pockets can also perform the same trick), providing it’s not bursting at the seams.
Have you been working out? Congratulations: chances are you’ve got the ideal build for a suit. Just don’t mess it up.
“It’s a question of proportion: striking the right balance between a tapered waist and the correct fit across broad shoulders,” says Gieves’ Ardron. “I see too many younger chaps walking around with their jackets hacked in to the point where the waist button is about to pop off.”
Tailoring is designed to emphasise your form in the same way that the gym does. So if you’ve already put the hard work in at your local iron paradise, you don’t need your suit to do any heavy lifting: “Cuts with soft, natural shoulders tend to work best,” adds Ardron.
In a similar vein, aggressively tapered trousers – a very modern affliction – will make you look like Johnny Bravo: balance is always more elegant. (Ditto dramatic peak lapels – a proportionally wide notch is less showy.) Besides, you don’t want people to think you skip leg day.
Video: The Secret to Buying a Perfect Suit
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